Seeing Red - adventures in dyeing

Seeing Red!

In the world of yarn dyeing, primary colours (in dyes) serve as the foundation for an infinite spectrum of amazing colours. Nearly any colour can be made using the three primary colours... especially once you know that there are multiple reds, or yellows or blues to chose from. Among them, red holds a special place due to its intensity, versatility and warmth. However, understanding the behaviour of all the primary colours is crucial for success in the dyeing process.

We will take a look first at the primary Reds. Not only do the different primary reds behave differently, but dyes from each supplier can also change over time (due to unavailability of raw materials, change in equipment, place of source changing etc), making it necessary to frequently test and adjust recipes to ensure colour consistency. In this article, we explore the various primary reds, their properties, and how they affect yarn dyeing.

My photo is of all the primary reds I have in my dye studio - the variety is quite amazing for a primary (each of these dyes are made using one source and are not blended or mixed with another colour).

1. **True Red (Balanced Red)**
- **Properties**: True red is a neutral red, without noticeable yellow or blue undertones. It provides a balanced and classic red that serves as a reliable base in dyeing.

• 
  - **Effect on Yarn**: This red offers predictability, making it easier to control when mixing with other primary colours. True red produces bold, saturated results on protein fibers like wool and silk, but can soften slightly on cellulose fibers like cotton. Given its neutrality, it’s an excellent base for creating other colors like purples and oranges. However, due to potential shifts in the base dye, it’s essential to frequently check for any subtle changes in the tone, particularly when aiming for consistency across multiple batches.
  
  2. **Warm Red (Yellow-Undertone Red)**
  - **Properties**: Warm reds, such as scarlet or vermilion, contain a yellow undertone, giving them a fiery, energetic quality.
  - **Effect on Yarn**: Warm reds create vibrant, glowing shades that stand out on yarns, especially on wool and silk, where the intensity of the dye is fully absorbed. However, they may appear softer on plant fibers. When used for color blending, warm reds lean toward orange, making them ideal for creating autumnal or sunset-inspired hues. Due to the changes that can occur in base dye batches, especially over time, dyers must be vigilant in maintaining the desired warmth in their reds through regular testing and adjustments.
  
  3. **Cool Red (Blue-Undertone Red)**
  - **Properties**: Cool reds, such as crimson or magenta, have a blue undertone that gives them a more subdued, elegant appearance.
  - **Effect on Yarn**: Cool reds are excellent for creating sophisticated shades like plum, wine, or rose. They mix well with blues to form rich purples or with whites to create soft pinks. On silk and other protein fibers, these reds can take on a luxurious sheen. On cotton, they appear slightly more muted but retain their depth. Cool reds are particularly sensitive to changes in dye composition, which can cause them to shift toward purplish tones if not closely monitored and adjusted over time.
  
  4. **Brick Red (Brownish Red)**
  - **Properties**: Brick red is an earthy red with noticeable brown undertones, resulting in a more subdued color compared to vibrant warm reds.
  - **Effect on Yarn**: This red works well for creating rustic, natural palettes. It is particularly suited for wool, where it produces a rich, vintage feel. On plant fibers, brick red may appear more neutral, providing a more grounded and understated shade. Ensuring consistency in brick red shades over multiple dye lots requires careful testing, as even minor shifts in the base dye can introduce unwanted variations.
  
  5. **Carmine and Cochineal Reds**
  - **Properties**: Traditionally sourced from natural materials like the cochineal insect, these reds offer a spectrum from bright pinkish reds to deeper hues.
  - **Effect on Yarn**: These natural reds provide unique, historic tones that work beautifully on protein fibers. They can vary in intensity based on the fiber type and dye concentration, which requires meticulous testing for those seeking consistency, especially given the natural variability in their sources.
  
  ### The Challenge of Dye Consistency Over Time
  
  One of the key challenges in yarn dyeing is achieving colour consistency, especially when working with primary reds. Over time, the composition of dye powders can change due to a variety of factors, such as changes in raw material sourcing, manufacturing conditions, or even storage environment. As a result, a dye that once produced a perfectly balanced red might shift slightly toward orange or purple in a new batch.
  
  To avoid surprises, dyers should perform frequent tests (especially when buying a new pot of dye) before committing to large dye batches. This involves sampling each new batch of dye on a skein of yarn to see how the colour behaves. Adjustments can then be made to the dye recipe, ensuring that the final product produces the desired shade. Sometimes it is decided to discontinue a colour if a consistent product cannot be produced.
  
  ### Factors Affecting Red Dyeing on Yarn
  
  1. **Fibre Type**
  - The type of fibre plays a crucial role in how red dyes are absorbed. Protein fibres like wool and silk generally produce more vibrant and saturated reds, while cellulose fibres like cotton and linen often yield softer, less intense shades.
  
  2. **Water pH**
  - The pH of the water used in dyeing can alter the hue of red dyes. Acidic water tends to intensify cool reds, while alkaline water can push warm reds toward orange tones. Since protein fibres require an acid environment to set the dye you can see that some colours are more challenging to attain.
  
  3. **Temperature**
  - The temperature during dyeing affects how evenly the colour is distributed and can influence the undertone. Higher temperatures can push cool reds toward purple, while lower temperatures might enhance the yellow in warm reds.
  
  4. **Dye Concentration**
  - As always the amount of dye used determines the saturation of the colour. All the skeins shown were dyed at 50% (which means .5 gm of dye) per 100 gram skein. More dye results in deeper, richer reds, while lower concentrations give paler pastel shades. 
  
  Conclusion
  
  Choosing the right primary red for yarn dyeing is both an art and a science. Each type of red—from warm, yellow-based tones to cool, blue-leaning shades—has its own unique properties that affect the final outcome on yarn. With the added complexity of base dyes shifting over time, regular testing and adjustments are crucial to maintain colour consistency. For dyers, understanding these factors and staying vigilant in testing ensures that each batch of yarn carries the rich, vibrant reds they envision.

At Green Tea Yarns, we’ve always had a special love for reds and pinks. They are some of the most rewarding—and sometimes the trickiest—colours to dye, but the results are worth every step. Our palette moves from the deep, lacquered richness of Dark Red Lacquer and the lively brightness of New Red, through to softer, more romantic tones such as Soft Rose and the cool, delicate Pale Dragon. Together, they create a family of shades that reflect both strength and subtlety, allowing makers to choose exactly the mood they want to capture in their work.